It was the charcuterie board to end all charcuterie boards.
On one side: hills of Stilton, brie and goat cheese joined by valleys of slivered dates, figs and jammy cherries the color of ink. On the other: thick, salty slices of hams, wee picklesand rounds of salumi marbled with fat.
I hadinitially balked at the $26.95 price tag. But when the server presented it, cradlingher arms under either end of the wood plank, money seemed trivial. She set the platter down carefully, nudging a square bowl of honey back to the center. "If you need more bread, just let us know," she said, and my heart melted.
I wasn't sure what to expect at the new Mad Fresh Bistro, but as first impressions go, this was outstanding. That seems to be a trend for this small south Fort Myers restaurant, no matter who's in charge.
Way back in 2008when the spacedebuted as Mad Takeout, the chef-driven to-go concept had a definitive flair. When it became Mad Fresh in 2012, Chef Xavier Duclos added to that flair. The famously ornery chef, the one whose ketchup ban made national headlines, was as talented as he was divisive. He crafted masterful dishes and served them his way or no way— Don't like aioli? Get out.
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Duclos left in spring 2016. A series of chefs trailed him, and thisMay the restaurant sold. That's whenownersPatrick and Nathalie Schuster took the reins. The Schusters hail from Germany, where they owned a series of crepe stands outside of Frankfurt. At Mad Fresh, though, they've left this space and its European-American menu largely intact.
The dining room looks the same, with the same lime-green walls flanked by the same chalkboards filled with specials. Seating is available in the same handful of booths with the same dozen-or-so stools lining the counter overlooking the open kitchen.
The menu is mostly the same, as well: thick burgers, pizzas,tartines that eat like delicious, open-faced sandwiches— everything ridiculously huge.
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Like the Parisian burger, a dish Duclos made locally famous six years ago, and onethe Schusters haven't just kept but have nearly mastered. This½-pound patty is still draped with rectangles of melting brie, onions and thick strips of bacon. The first time I had itI fell in love. I fell in love all over again when Mrs. Schuster delivered it to my table last week, and I had that firstjuicy, familiar bite.
As with the old Mad Fresh, the new Mad Fresh doesn't explain that its pizzas are made to be shared. Its pies are huge, their crusts chewy yet delicately thin. The Classique is a simple mix of good tomato sauce and melty mozzarella. The Parisian is sauce-less,heaped with rare slices of flank steak, arugula and a healthy smattering of truffle fries(just as thin, hand-cut and addicting as ever).
This new Mad Fresh is a vegetarian's dream. The Schusters have added a vegan burger tothe menu and a trio of creative salads— roasted beets with wine-poached pears!— that need no meat. Its mushroom tartine is another outstanding dish, loaded with meaty trumpets, long-stemmed enoki and frilly oysters, all of them organic, all of them roasted till they spill their savory juices onto the chewy slab of sourdoughthat is their base.
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Scallops, seared till the edges crisp and the insides melt, are a frequent special, paired recently with anherb-infused polenta that was mostly lumps. Its accompanying roasted vegetables tasted bland, a bit of a disappointment considering the $28 price tag.
That's another thing that hasn't changed: the prices. Mad Fresh has always felt expensive, and thisversion is no different. That mushroom tartine is $19.95. Burgers startat $15.95. If those prices feel steep,bring a friend. The Schusters' portions are gigantic, making any of its dishesshareable.
The restaurant's best bargain is its wines. It recently had bottles of Chateauneuf-du-Pape for $65, which is lower than I've seen it at Total Wine. Lesser-known but still as lovely vintages can be had for $7 a glass or $26 per bottle if you order from the list of wine specials on the right wall.
Service isn't nearly as scary as it was back in Duclos' day, but it's not entirely refined, either. The Schusters are brusque but efficient. They're happy to bring a side of their homemade ketchup should you need it, though during a recent lunch rushthe wait for the check felt endless.
It wasn't the best parting impression. But with all the Mad Fresh classics tasting as good as ever, it won't be my last impression.
Jean Le Boeuf is the pseudonym used by a local food lover who dines at restaurants anonymously and without warning, with meals paid for by The News-Press. Follow the critic atfacebook.com/jeanleboeufswflor @JeanLeBoeuf onTwitterandInstagram.
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Mad Fresh Bistro
12995 S. Cleveland Ave., south Fort Myers
•Food:★★½☆
•Atmosphere:★★☆☆
•Service: ★★☆☆
JLB's new stars system, explained
•Price: $$-$$$$
•Call:239-362-2363
•Web:madfreshbistro.com
•Hours: noon-3 p.m. and 5-9 p.m. Tuesday to Saturday, closed Sunday and Monday
•Noise level: Moderate
•Etc.: Beer and wine served, online ordering and takeout available, reservations accepted
Unmasking Jean Le Boeuf, a look at JLB over 35 years
Samplemenu
Appetizers
• Escargot Marsala, $9.95
• Mussels mariniere, $15.95
• Beet salad, $15.95
Entrees
• Blue burger, $15.95
• Fungi pizza, $19.95
• Pan-seared sea scallops (3), $28.45
What the symbols mean
★ - Fair
★★ - Good
★★★ - Excellent
★★★★ - Exceptional
$ - Average dinner entree is under $10
$$ - $10-$15
$$$ - $15-$20
$$$$ - $20-$25
$$$$$ - $25 and up
